Geyser Installation Things To Know Before You Get This

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The Basic Principles Of Geyser Installation

In this post I will certainly explain the common standard requirements of a noise, modern high stress, straight installation. If you need detail, after that I suggest that you take a look at the web site (). For anybody searching for, get in touch with your regional plumbing organisation. The following description relates to a modern-day high stress (400/600Kpa) system generally made by Kwikot South Africa.



Much less typical are old low stress systems (100kpa) open pipe or "Latco" kind systems. Understand that the components are NOT interchangeable between both distinctive systems - High stress and also Low pressure! It is possible to get rid of an old reduced pressure system as well as change it with a modern-day high pressure system however - you buy a new high pressure hot spring as well as install it according to the present requirements.



The hot spring sits in a tray made of plastic (typically red) or tin plate. I like the plastic ones.

Since June 2001, the drip tray is not optional - its reached exist and also there needs to be a drain pipe for it! The drainpipe is a 50mm PVC drain that drains the tray by piping the water out the home. I have actually seen many drip trays mounted without drains pipes! If your setup pre-dates June 2001 you may wish to obtain a plumber to check out it.

The Buzz on Geyser Installation

The two vacuum cleaner breakers stand up and down concerning 30cm over the hot spring. These are crucial, as they quit water siphoning out the hot spring when the cool supply is stopped - geyser installation.

Keep in mind that vacuum cleaner breakers are a sensibly brand-new requirement - there are still thousands of old HP systems out there without vacuum breakers and also I am yet to see one collapse. Just since I haven't seen it does not mean it's not happening!

The cold water side is the side that straight links to the drainpipe cock and also enters the hot spring near the bottom. After the shut off valve you would generally locate a Stress Control Valve (PCV). There are a variety of various kinds, mostly made of brass but some are made from plastic.

This is where the PCV launches stress and this is the pipe that typically leaks. Don't worry if you can not locate the PCV alongside the hot spring - it might be totaled 10 metres away, often in a much click here for more more available place on a wall exterior. Sometimes it's in a little plastic box outside.

Indicators on Geyser Installation You Should Know

This is a vital part that ought to never be messed with or 'repaired'. This valve must have a steel (copper or steel) pipeline connected to it and also the pipe should lead directly out the building. This vent pipeline is a vital safety and security function check my reference of the entire system. It needs to be made from copper or steel - plastic.

The T&P valve is the least optional element - it needs to be there! - The weight of the hot spring should be properly sustained on the roof trusses - a minimum of two assistances under the 'feet' of the hot spring. If it looks unstable get a plumbing to inspect it out.

The geyser has to be earthed! I have seen several geysers with the planet cable unconnected. All the copper pipes have to additionally be earthed and also adhered to the geyser earth.


Once more, these are typically simply left existing next to the geyser. There are basically just two main thermostat kinds - the modern round "Kwiktherm" in more recent Kwikot hot website here springs and the VK (rectangular block) type in older geysers and in some newer non-Kwikot devices. The hot spring might be fed (cold water) with polcop (plastic) pipe - as much as the shut down shutoff, but the pipeline right into and also out of the geyser must be copper or galvanized steel.

Little Known Questions About Geyser Installation.

The warm water side ought to be copper, steel or appropriately rated (70) plastic or composite pipe. Note that you must have at the very least 1m of copper/steel pipe out the geyser - you may not attach plastic (compound) pipe straight to the hot spring. As above, the PCV as well as T&P should be made from copper or steel - especially the air vent out of the T&P valve.



I have seen a number of installations where the installer has simply run a short length of 22mm copper into the drip tray with the idea being that the T&P can air vent straight into the drip tray. A suggestion since the warm (100 +) water/steam thaws the drip tray and the PVC drain pipe.

The PCV is commonly above the geyser and the cold water flows down into the geyser. This is rather vital due to the fact that it creates an anti-syphon loop that stops the hot spring from draining pipes back via the inlet in the event of a water system failing. If you obtain warm water appearing your cold taps when the supply of water falls short after that this is not working appropriately.

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